Mexico: Living History October 25, 2022

We’ve been away from “home” for over five months. It feels like a lifetime. Re-reading  previous blogs I sense that we’re putting our experiences in a rosy glow.  Not entirely true. Hardly a day passes when one of us doesn’t voice a longing for the stability and comforts of home.  A shower that works, a kitchen that functions well with a stove that cooks and a fridge that freezes, shops where we can find what we want and a washing machine that washes.  We are both reluctant to complain in case it sounds like regret.  Anthony Bourdain (the traveling gourmet chef) once said, “Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”

 

Mexico is still emerging as a country with a turbulent history as it gropes its way toward democratic reform and independence while coming to terms with the legacy of colonialism and assimilation. You cannot miss issues of race, culture and background which are part of daily life. Nowhere did I notice this more powerfully than when I visited the Cuernavaca Cathedral. Walking through what must have once been the old cemetery towards the West door, the hair on the back of my neck rose. A cross with the Memento Mori skull and crossbones above the West door?

Crenellations? Arrow vents? This was not in the  European gothic style of the 1400s. It was built in 1529 as a demonstration of colonial power. The cathedral and Cortez’s adjacent palace were partly a response to the Aztec Temples and a way of intimidating the local population. Inside, the architecture was Roman and heavily Byzantine. The enormous baptismal font set in on a sunken base looked frightening. The message was clear. Baptism and becoming obedient citizens are your salvation. 

 

What was also interesting were the recently discovered frescoes.  They looked more like figures from the Bayeux Tapestry. They were primitive but full of color and movement and depicted the martyrdom of Christian priests in Japan in the early 17th Century. The costumes and spears going symmetrically through the bodies reminded me of the Aztec sacrifices. The artists who painted them were definitely not Spanish but more likely to be indigenous. There was also a private side chapel reserved for those who wished to pray with the traditional baroque adornments and paintings, the entrance to which was guarded by the portraits of a dozen or so priests who had died in the service of their faith somewhere in Mexico.

 

Over the last two weeks we have been more than fortunate to acquire the services of Eric Iván Hernández from the owner of our Casita, Bob.  Eric is a registered official guide, speaks English and has introduced us to places we might never have found. He has been a teacher, a translator, is newly married and has a daughter on the way. We were excited to share in his joy as well as his knowledge of the history of Cuernavaca. He took us first to an Aztec Temple on a hill overlooking Cuernavaca which had been one of the ceremonial centers. Many such temples were  destroyed and built over during colonial times. (The Cathedral was another example.) This one survived because it had been virtually buried but rediscovered during the civil war when a gun battery had been installed on the top and the firing of the guns uncovered the ruins.  Opposite the ruins was a modern theatre and a very high staircase. The photo attached is the view from the staircase.

 

Having a teacher has been wonderful and Eric is a fountain of information.

Quiz time: Nobody ever came up with the fact (or told us) that MELBORP, the name on the building opposite Swiss Suites in Colombia was Problem spelled backwards. 

The photo below is another quiz and a taste of our next adventure. 

Question:  Where was this picture taken?

• (a)  Cuernavaca’s Botanical Gardens (b) Hotel & Spa Hacienda de Cortes (c)The historical ruins of an old sugar and alcohol factory.  (See the next blog if you aren’t sure.)

 

      Marney here… 

Bourdain’s words are now on a stickie on my Mac to remind me of the opportunity this is to see so many countries. 

Our first outing to the Cathedral was interesting but I did find the skull and cross bones underneath the Cross a bit odd – until Alan explained it to me.  I found  peace when inside the church (as I usually do in churches or quiet places of any type) and was mesmerized by the frescoes on the walls. I had seen frescoes when I was in France but this was up close and personal.  I also couldn’t help but wonder how many people they baptized at one time when I saw the enormous baptismal font.  I wanted to light a candle (a little ritual I have when visiting historic churches but instead of a donation it was a BYOC (bring your own candle) affair.

Eric has been such a pleasure to be around and we have learned a lot already.  On our first trip with him, I really enjoyed seeing the site of the ruins (photo above) and only wish I could have climbed the staircase opposite to see the amazing view of Cuernavaca.   (Photo is of our second trip with Eric to a chapel which will be described in the next blog.)

The storms here have been violent lately (the kind of sound and lighting effects which are perfect for a murder mystery) and I was worried about our squirrels having somewhere dry to hang out.  I was relieved to read on line that one of the ways they keep themselves dry is to use their tails as umbrellas.  I always figured there had to be more to owning a fur coat than just warmth and beauty (disclaimer: I only wore fur coats before the rebellion of wearing real fur – and for the

 plays I was in.)

P.S. Stay tuned for updates on Tarzan as he gets more friendly (Alan actually saw him on a tree outside our casita and got a good look at him.  Apparently we are now sure it is a HIM as I understand the nuts he was showing off were not reserve foodstuff.)