Mexico Part 1 September 29, 2022

Leaving Colombia was more emotionally difficult than we expected.  Just back from Argentina, it felt like a sort of homecoming. There was lots of space at Swiss Suites and a big fridge, modern washing machine/dryer and a beautiful view. Thankfully, the apartment had dried out since early days when the ceiling needed to be repaired.   We could now wear our pajamas without putting them in the dryer first.  Of course, there was still the noise from next door, a steady thump, thump, thump, which was either coming from a running machine or stereo speakers. One night (barefoot and in my pajamas) I was brave enough to go next door when the thumping began at 9:00. I rang the bell and plunged into a mime with verbal accompaniment. “Hola.  Muchos problems. Boom, Boom, Boom. La machina. La musica. En la noche y en la manana.”  I smiled as if I had made a joke and they looked back at me as if I had just landed from outer space. “Muchas gracias” I said.  They nodded, I smiled and retreated down the corridor, foolishly believing that my acting/Spanish skills had communicated the problem. Unfortunately, it didn’t make an ounce of difference.

 

What I loved about Swiss Suites along with the green  lushness of  the gardens containing the same varieties which I had had to struggle with to keep alive in Phoenix, was watching the clouds as they came in whispering over the surrounding hills. Sometimes, during a storm they were dark and heavy with rain and looked like they were boiling. One night I watched them from the Jacuzzi on the rooftop, up to my neck in warm turbulent water, as the lightning flashed, thunder crackled and clouds roiled and bellied out and rain started to fall.    It got a bit dramatic, so I gathered my towel and fled downstairs like a good coward. Being electrocuted in a Jacuzzi might be a dramatic way to go but it wasn’t my idea of a fond farewell to life.

 

After a few days of rest, we took our guide and friend, Juan, out for a farewell lunch. Marney brought his two-year old daughter a little pair of handmade leather bootees from Mendoza and because the daughter was passionate about painting Marney had commissioned a painting from her.  Juan brought it over as a farewell gift which we will have framed. We dragged Juan to the little Indian restaurant in the swanky mall up the road. Like a lot of Colombians, Juan does not like spicy food, but we assured him that this was Colombian style Indian food and that you can add spice at the table. So, Juan gathered his taste buds, shut his eyes and tried the blandest of dishes, together with a good white wine, and I think we  might have converted him. Afterwards he and Marney used his translation skills at the pharmacy to get the medications she needed. Meanwhile, I took a tour of the pharmacy which was a bit like CVS although I was taken aback by a well-lit display of adult toys and “stuff”,  most of which I had no idea as to their possible purpose or function. Juan came to help me out and there was considerable juvenile male laughter although Marney was embarassed.  I thought how strange it would be to have such a display in CVS or Walgreens.

            ( Photo was deleted by Marney.)

Next up was our trip to Cuernervaca and getting there was surprisingly easy. The flight from Medellin was spartan – a packet of peanuts and orange juice to keep us alive. We were in the front row so we were able to watch the lives of the stewards for five hours. They either prepared to distribute peanuts and orange juice et al or defended the pilots as they came out for their potty breaks and snacks. During turbulence the two stewards strapped themselves to their seats and touchingly locked arms. We assumed they were more than workmates.

 

After landing at the new airport in Mexico City, we navigated our way through customs with the help of a remarkable man who must not go unrecognized. His job was to ferry passengers in a wheelchair to where they needed to go. Never in the field of human travel has so much effort been expended to look after a couple of travelers finding their way in an unfamiliar airport. He knew all the officials, all the drills and all the forms we had or didn’t have to have. We were in and out of lifts and along moving walkways.  He must have been 5’4″ but wiry and strong. While I puffed and panted trailing in his rear with two suitcases and a backpack, this man, whose name I wish I knew, wheeled Marney, two suitcases and another backpack halfway across Mexico City. He got us to the baggage claim area and then to the correct counter for the bus and ultimately to the bus itself. He was as happy as a lark that we were so grateful and tipped him generously.  That must not happen often as he looked pleased but also shocked and surprised. Some moments in life are deeply precious. This was one of them.

 

Our initial plan was to get a taxi from Mexico City to Cuernervaca. Luckily, on the plane Marney was seated by a friendly American who told us we would be paying over the odds and the bus was a much better idea. I envisioned the sort of buses Mark Maresca and I had traveled in while in Guatemala with chickens in cages on the roof. “These buses are big, with clean bathrooms and all the amenities, including Wi-Fi and… you can watch a movie” he said. “Plus they are cheap!”  He was right.  They took our bags and in no time at all we were sitting on a plush modern bus purring our way through the traffic. We were even provided with water and packets of addictive red spicy peanuts.

 

As we climbed up out of the valley, the panoramic view of Mexico City behind us was stunning… almost as amazing as the view of the valley below once we started our descent into Cuernervaca nestled in the distant sunlit green valley. There were taxis at the bus station and a big flash looking Casino and a Walmart! I am not a Walmart fan but I confess it did  feel comforting.

Why come to Cuernevaca? Well, besides a Walmart, it has a Costco, Office Depot, Amazon delivery and other recognizable aspects of American civilization. The climate’s like Medellin, an eternal spring and it’s close to the US.  Barbara Hutton’s (Woolworth fortune) minions said it was the place to retire and it still has a Woolworth’s!  Brigit Bardot liked Cuernavaca and Snowbirds come here in the winter.  Even Cortez set up his palace here. It’s cheaper than the US and  Mexico does not have nuclear weapons. What is not to like?

 

Cuernavaca is an old city and its roads twist and turn, so housing, shops and cafes huddle together haphazardly. There’s also a lot of razor wire and gates. Ubiquitous road bumps slow down the traffic and move you about the insides of the taxi like being in a blender.  After much shaking in the taxi, we stopped on the slope of a one-way street with a high wall and an iron gate to the left. It could have been the local prison. The taxi driver nodded and announced “Hotel Azul.” I got out and went to the gate. It was locked but there was a small intercom with a button which I pressed but nothing happened. Meanwhile, the driver was piling our luggage onto the road obstructing the traffic and Marney was doing her best to extricate herself from the taxi a foot from the wall. Suddenly the lock on the gate clicked. I didn’t understand that this was the door being opened electronically so I waved at the taxi driver. He was struggling with the cases as the traffic was whizzing past but had the good sense to push the gate to show that it was open. The experience was akin to being in an episode of Star Trek and after a bumpy ride through the Transporter, arriving on a different planet.

Welcome to the Hotel Azul, Cuernavaca. 

 

Our room was next to the heated lap pool and beautifully decorated with carvings, pictures of angels and Talaverda pottery.

We made it. Welcome to Mexico!

          Marney here… 

It was amazing how comforting it was to get back to Swiss Suites although after half a day I was reminded of the thumping next door, the motorcycles and trucks etc. and was ready for the trip to Cuernervaca.

It was a perfect ending to the Colombian experience seeing Juan and having lunch.  And yes, they embarrassed me in the pharmacy but I figured I would never see those people again so…laughed and let it go. 

Packing up all four cases (we only took two small suitcases to Argentina and left the rest in Colombia) was once again, a challenge and the cleaning lady made out like a bandit as I discarded a lot of things I would never use again. All went well at the airport (a new experience) and the next thing I knew we were at Hotel Azul and it was as I pictured – rooms surrounding a courtyard like the typical haciendas in the books. Managed to walk up the hill to Woolworth’s (don’t think I’ve been in one since I was 16) the next morning and got necessary shampoo, etc.

So, we got settled in and are getting ready to look at an Air BNB I found to see if it will work for us after the week in the hotel.  Viva Mexico!